Tuesday, August 1, 2023

A pretrip to Glacier with the g’kidz

A planned preamble to another white water rafting trip down the middle fork of the Salmon replete with many grade 3-4 rapids. Then, a road bump and a decision. Eight interminable nosebleeds – 3 ED visits, a (very descriptive) rhinoRocket, 20% blood loss with anemia, finally ENT cautery of an ethmoid artery bleed, left me vulnerable. A vital debate – probably OK during rafting vs. possible rebleed during trip with no cell service/medical access for six days (? helicopter out, ruined trip for 25) … finally canceled for medical reasons. Still, 36 hours at Glacier with the two g’kidz.

Adaptability
Despite arriving early at 8:30, the park ranger indicated that parking lots for Logan Pass and the major hikes were already likely full so we should shuttle instead of drive. But after an hour of shuttle waiting/going nowhere (first took only 2 more, the big bus only 12 more – up to us, the next headed the opposite way … every 15-30 min, hopes were dashed, and we envisioned our wish list being chopped to one hike and the planned boat ride and the Going-to-the-sun Road itself! A frustrated 3-way huddle led to scrapping the boat ride, restarting the car, and chancing open road-side parking. Beautiful untrammeled waterfalls and streams, flowing crystalline blue water and chilly wadeable pools opened up for Jack and Naomi. A lucky spot for Avalanche Falls but we went opposite to find a traversable, wide stream to build a city of cairns (stackable rocks). Another spot along Cedar Trail to redirect the stream and fashion a tiled pool. And after reaching the penultimate Logan Pass in mid-afternoon … still no parking as John drove the lot for 30 min … and we were apparently back to viewing the rest of park from the road. And magically at 4 pm a spot opened up and we topped the day at Hidden Lake Overlook with its sweeping vistas of mountains and valleys filled with blue water, deer, and, THE best, white mountain goats clambering high on the mountainsides, with the King of the Mountain Goats seated majestically within 15 feet as we paid photo homage. Of course mid-course corrections can one astray but in our case, flexibility and redirection led to a very satisfying day.

Big vs. little agendas
Usually, ambitious travel itineraries stack up a pile of planned and suggested attractions and the natural impulse is to maximize the opportunities. The desire to see as many waterfalls and vistas vs. the kids needs for d-own time. As it turned out, their frigid wading, cairns city building and stream diverting/pool creating rejuvenated and reenergized them and rebalanced the equation towards the little. At the end, as the adults were winding down, they were zigzagging off the path onto rocks and back … and wanting more.

Mother Nature and National Parks
No litter. Azure skies. Unimaginable wide and steep vistas quite different from Yosemite. Sheer drop offs on the edge of the road. Water falls. Crystalline blue water – falling, crashing, careening, bubbling and placidly streaming. Uphill, breath-drawing and breathtaking hikes. Many people on the main trails, and many walking toddlers. When walking with Rachel, despite the many places visited while growing up, we could only recall one national park (Smoky Mountain National Park) visited as a family. We didn’t prioritize that as a family as others’ had. Did we miss out?

Views, large and small
The large vistas were my favorite. But really, how could I pick one part of the many rich concatenary experiences, both large and small. Simply watching a 10 and 12 year old use water, small and large stones and sticks in creative ways. I found myself enthralled by nature’s smaller patterns. Although not a ‘nature’ person, I gazed at the patterns of erosion around the streams leaving smooth circular pools or wave-like undulations, the colored stones forming a natural mosaic or art work. Have I been too immersed in art lately, now seeing the world through aesthetic spectacles?

Unplugged yet connected
Borrowing from John’s toast to our very first Salmon R rafting trip, we were without internet, forced to observe, participate and play in nature by itself, even if for a fleeting moment. Unplugged from the electronic multiverse, connecting to family and nature. Even Jack commented, ‘it was a great chance to connect with you Gong Gong!

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